First, ignore the marketing names.
“Power,” “control” and “spin” describe design intentions, not guaranteed results. Larger heads generally offer a more forgiving hitting area; smaller, demanding frames are not a necessary graduation step. A standard adult racket is usually 27 inches long. Extra length adds reach but can be harder to maneuver. Racket characteristics explained.
Read the label before the review.
Save the exact model, year and weight version. Similar names can describe different rackets. Compare specifications on the same basis: strung with strung, unstrung with unstrung.
| On the label | What it tells you | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Head size / in² or cm² | The area inside the frame. | 100 in² is about 645 cm². Bigger does not mean better for every player. |
| Weight / grams or ounces | The mass of the racket. | Are strings included? Grips and accessories also change the finished setup. |
| Balance / mm, cm, HL or HH | Where it balances along its length. | Measured from the handle end; compare at the same stringing state. |
| Swingweight | Resistance to rotating the racket. | It is not another name for grams. Compare measurements from the same source. |
| String pattern / e.g. 16 × 19 | Main strings × cross strings. | More open patterns can change launch and string movement; technique still matters. |
| Stiffness / often RA | A frame-flex measurement. | Not a comfort score for the whole setup; strings, tension and contact matter too. |
Definitions: Tennis Warehouse equipment guide and Crawford Lindsey’s weight, balance and swingweight explanation.
Grip size: measure, then hold.
The number is handle circumference, not racket length. Open your playing hand with fingers together. Measure from the lower lateral palm crease to the tip of your ring finger for an initial estimate. Then hold that size and a neighboring size if possible.
With an eastern forehand grip, the index finger of your other hand should roughly fit between your fingertips and palm. Treat this as a starting check, not a universal rule. The handle should feel secure without a constant hard squeeze. Measurement instructions.
| European size | US circumference |
|---|---|
| L0 / 0 | 4 inches |
| L1 / 1 | 4 ⅛ inches |
| L2 / 2 | 4 ¼ inches |
| L3 / 3 | 4 ⅜ inches |
| L4 / 4 | 4 ½ inches |
| L5 / 5 | 4 ⅝ inches |
Between sizes? It is usually easier to build up a smaller handle with an overgrip than to shrink a larger one. Try the finished grip where possible; shape and wrapping affect feel. Do not choose by gender or assume a grip change treats an injury.
Weight, balance and swingweight are three different questions.
Two rackets can weigh the same and swing differently. Balance locates the center of mass; swingweight reflects resistance to rotation. Head-light means the balance point is nearer the handle than the racket’s midpoint. It does not automatically mean low swingweight. Read the physics.
27 inches = 68.58 cm
The midpoint is 34.29 cm from the handle end. A balance point at 32 cm lies 2.29 cm toward the handle: head-light. A balance point at 35 cm lies 0.71 cm toward the head: head-heavy.
Compare actual finished rackets. These balance numbers alone cannot tell you which is easier for you to swing.
When testing, notice the end of the session as well as the first five hits. Can you prepare on time and serve without forcing the motion? If a racket repeatedly feels late or tiring, put it beside a more manageable option. If it feels unstable, investigate contact and the complete setup before simply adding weight.
The frame is only part of the purchase.
Materials: read beyond “carbon.”
Graphite/carbon-fiber composites and aluminum are common frame descriptions, sometimes combined with other materials. The material name alone does not establish quality, stiffness or suitability. Ask whether the specification describes the whole frame or only a component. For an occasional first try, a basic racket may be enough; for regular use, compare the complete construction, condition and restringing options.
Strings: start with a reason, not a professional’s setup.
- Synthetic gut: a practical, usually economical all-round starting choice.
- Multifilament: often chosen for a softer feel; compare cost and durability.
- Natural gut: a premium option, not a requirement for learning.
- Polyester: commonly selected for control and durability by faster-swinging players; not an automatic beginner upgrade.
String gauge is thickness. Tension is the installation setting, normally given in pounds or kilograms. Ask a stringer for a suitable starting setup within the frame’s recommended range, and record it. No single tension fits every racket or player. String materials, gauge and tension.
Before paying, ask: Is this racket already strung? Which string is installed? What would replacement cost? A low frame price may not include strings or labor. Do not assume an old stringbed is ready just because no string has broken.
A decision you can make without a coach beside you.
- Set the total budget. Include strings, labor and grip, not just the frame.
- Shortlist two options. Keep length and grip similar so you are not changing everything at once.
- Borrow or demo if possible. Use the same partner, balls and familiar tasks. Record the string setup because it can affect the comparison.
- Write three observations. Ease of preparation, comfort and repeatable contact. Add what became harder as the session continued.
- Check the purchase conditions. Ask about used-frame cracks, replacement grommets, demo charges and returns after stringing or play.
- Choose the workable option. A racket you can use confidently now does not need to be a lifetime purchase.
If a demo is unavailable, ask the seller for the exact specifications and written return conditions before ordering. A video review is most useful when the reviewer explains their level, playing style, strings and test conditions. A confident verdict without that context may not travel well to your game.
What should I tell a shop or stringer?
“I’m new or returning to tennis. My total budget including strings is ___. I expect to play ___ times a week. My estimated grip is ___. I want to compare two manageable adult rackets. What are the strung weight, swingweight and string setup, and what can I try or return?”
Should I copy a professional player’s racket?
Use it as a point of interest, not the decision. Confirm the exact retail version and specifications rather than relying on paintwork or an endorsement. Your contact, swing and playing schedule are the relevant comparison.
What if playing hurts?
Stop the activity causing pain and seek appropriate professional advice if it persists or concerns you. This guide cannot diagnose the cause, and no equipment choice is presented as treatment.
Independent researched guide, updated September 11, 2026. No rackets were tested for this article, no affiliate links are included and no commercial partnership is implied. Shortlist and comparison steps are GEN Tennis editorial guidance. Sources below are retailer-produced educational references, not independent product rankings.
Our editorial standards · Questions or corrections? Contact the editor.